Posts Tagged ‘instructional’

DIY Cloven Hoof Shoes

A friend of a friend of mine makes shoes with actual goat hooves, which I LOVE!  But they’re way more expensive than I can justify to spend on novelty shoes that I will rarely wear, so I made my own for super cheap!  And I didn’t have to use any part of a goat carcass, which is convenient ::

cloven-hoof-shoes-finished

I really wanted to use actual heel-less shoes, but didn’t want to spend $60-$70 on shoes I was going to possibly destroy.  So I used some old shoes with a thin heal and a decent platform.

old-shoes-to-transform

The platform angled in towards the foot, but I wanted to it angle outwards to be more hoof-like.  To sculpt the hoof I used 1/2″ L200 foam (an amazing closed-cell foam that’s lightweight and durable).  I made a rough pattern out of paper to get the right angle for the hoof before cutting the foam.

cutting-foam-for-shoes

After the foam was cut, I used a dremel to sand down the two edges where it would meet the sides of the shoe.  I also sanded the top edge so there would be more surface area for the glue when it gets applied to the platform.

foam-sanded-down

I used a rough sand paper to sand the entire shoe, including the heel and patent vinyl.  Then I used Barge cement (some sewing supply and hardware stores carry this, but not Home Depot unfortunately) to glue the foam to the platform.  The shoes were actually too small for me, so I used the foam to extend the base of the shoe as well as sculpt out the hoof.  Below you can see the difference in the shape of the shoe with the foam added.  The black on the top and bottom of the foam is Plasti-Dip, which I used to protect the surface of the foam that would be exposed, not covered in fur.  And the yellow stuff on the shoe in the background is the Barge cement, to show where the foam is being attached.

foam-on-shoes-to-extend-hoof

I cut a slit down the front of each foam piece after it was glued to the shoe.  Only go about half way deep into the foam, don’t get crazy.  Then I used more L200 foam to add depth to the cleft, again using the dremel to sand the foam into the shape I needed.  I also used 1/2″ mattress foam (yellow open-cell foam, very soft and not as durable as L200) to fill in the sides because it’s more forgiving in shape due to its softness.

foam-on-shoes-to-make-cleft-in-hoof

Once I was happy with the shape of the hooves, I used hot glue to apply the fake leather. There is one seam in the front and one in the back.  Ideally there would have only been the one seam in the back, but I was using scraps of fake leather.

At this time I also painted the heel black so it wouldn’t stand out as much.  This is why I sanded down the shoe in the beginning.  I just used regular interior/exterior house paint with a gloss finish.

cloven-hoof-with-pleather

The fur section was the hardest.  TIP :: If possible, use fur with a stiff backing, not the soft, slinky fur. The stiff fur will stand up on its own and looks better.

I put on the shoes and used a sharpy to mark the curve of the front of my foot where the seam would go, roughly mark the middle of the back (the closure will go there), and also mark the top (don’t forget to check the grain of the fabric when you do this, make sure the fur is going in the correct direction).  Then when I cut out the fur, I left a few inches in the back and the bottom.  Stitch the front seam by hand or by machine, and then pull the fur out of the seam so it’s not as obvious.  Then fold over the top about 1/2″ and hand stitch it down from the back.  TIP :: Try not to stitch over the fur on the front, just grab the base of the fur with the needle.

This is the tricky part.  Or at least it was for me, because the shoes I was using were strapy.  If you do this over boots it will be easier.  Put on one of the shoes and lay the fur over it, with the seam lined up in the middle over the cleft in the hoof.  Mark where it lays over the platform by about 1/4″ and cut away the excess in the front only for now.  Use hot glue to glue down a section of the fur at a time, starting in the front.  Mark and cut the fur as you move along the base of the shoe and around the heel, keeping the shoe on your foot the whole time so that the fit/shape is correct.  When you get to the back, hand stitch 1″ up the back seam.  Leave the excess fur for the closure.  I used 1″ velcro (If you live in Los Angeles, there’s this great place on San Julian between 8th and 9th that has ridiculously cheap velcro and other basic trims…I don’t know the name of it but they have boxes of crap outside and a labyrinth of crap inside, and also some good stuff).  Carefully mark and pin/stitch the closure into place, and then you’re done!

I usually trim fur down to the base fabric when I’m sewing something on top of it, for example one side of the velcro.  I also trimmed the fur a bit on the front to show more of the hoof.  If I make another pair of these, I would try to get a base shoe with a taller platform so the hoof would be larger.

cloven-hoof-shoes-finished1

:: KtB ::

Black Metal Severed Head Window Planters

So much awesome ::

black metal window planters

I had been wanting some kind of greenery in my place but I don’t have much space or direct sunlight for an indoor garden.  I browsed around the interwebs and discovered various window planters (a perfect solution for my predicament), so I decided to make my own!  I took a few mannequins that have been lying around…seriously, they’re made to lay down so I couldn’t really use them for clothes…and I cut their heads off!  Mwahaha!  Oh.  Here’s how I did it ::

head2-taped-off-neck

I used electrical tape to mark where I wanted to cut and to keep the fiber glass from cracking.  I couldn’t cut them with my dremel because the neck angles were all weird due to their weird layingdownness, so I hacked at them with a flat screwdriver and hammer.  I’m sure my neighbors hated me for that.  It was really loud and it took forever.

head1-severed

Once the head was severed I marked and cut off the top/back dome to make the hole for the plant to pop up through.  See how happy she is?  The one above had a dome shape already built in so it was easy to bust out.  The other one I was able to cut with the dremel, also easy but there was a lot of nasty fiberglass dust that seemed like it would penetrate my safety goggles and mask too easily.  Oh well.

head2-plastidip

On the exposed area of fiberglass I painted two coats of black Plastidip to seal all of the sharp edges. I also drilled two small holes above each ear to attach the wire through for hanging it on the window.

head1-base-coat2

Then I used white spray paint to get the base for the black metal makeup.  This mannequin had eyelashes so I put scotch tape over them to keep out the spray paint.  Now it’s time to unleash those Black Metal corpse paint skillz!

head1-painted1

I did pretty classic Black Metal aesthetic on this one using regular black acrylic paint.

head2-painted-front

This one was supposed to be similar to the one above but all I could see was a Batman mask so I painted over it with creepy unibrow and drips.  Then I added inverted cross pupils for extra Satan points.  I also used a clear matte finish spray to seal them off.

head1-base-plastic

Now that they look awesome, it’s time to make them functional.  First put the wire through the holes on the side.  I used “picture hanging wire” from Home Depot.  Then cut some thick plastic (like what you would put on the floor if you’re painting)  into a circle and hot-glue it to the base of the head from the inside.  But be careful because the glue will melt the plastic.  Keep the gun on a low heat setting if there is one, and don’t push too hard on the plastic, just enough to adhere to the fiberglass.

head1-plastic-liner

Fiberglass isn’t the best home for a plant because they retain heat.  My window gets morning sun, so I put two layers of plastic loosely lining the sides of the head, hot-gluing along the top edge only.  This left wrinkles of plastic throughout the head to insulate it, and wrinkles at the bottom to filter the water.  I also put non-toxic beanbag foam beans in the bottom (you can also use packing peanuts) to use as a water filter also, since I didn’t want drainage holes in the bottom plastic.

planters-finished

I planted the foliage in the severed mannequin heads before hanging them with the wire through/around the window grate.  Nice and creepy home decor :)

finished-planters-side2

:: KtB ::

Painting leather couches

…is not as difficult as I thought it would be!  Time consuming yes, but oh so simple ::

Finished Couch

Finished Couch!

Here’s the blank canvas I started with ::

New-used couch, super comfy but I wasn't feelin' the color

New-used couch, super comfy but I just wasn't feelin' the color

I went to an art supply store and got some paints that were made for leather (I also grabbed some bronze metallic powder, it looked too cool to pass up and I was in a rusty mood) ::

Paaaaaaaiinnnntttssssss.  Actually I'm surprized I was able to cover the entire couch using just 4 tiny containers of paint.  You have to paint it on pretty thickly to get opacity.

Paaaaaaaiinnnntttssssss. Actually I'm surprized I was able to cover the entire couch using just 4 tiny containers of paint. You have to paint it on pretty thickly to get opacity.

I searched images online for striped couches and found a few to use as inspiration, and then I made a few mock-ups in Photoshop so I could try different stripe directions before deciding on how exactly to proceed.  Here’s the mock-up I ended up going with, not too bad eh? ::

Many mock-ups were made, only one was chosen.

Many mock-ups were made, only one was chosen.

Then I measured and marked off the stripes with a sharpy and a straightedge.  I happened to use a black sharpy, but when I started painting the orange I found that it did not cover the black.  “Fool!” I thought at first, but after the orange was painted, I was happy to have a line to follow when painting the black stripes. Just don’t mess up when drawing the lines or it will be a b:tch trying to cover them up with lighter color paint.

I used pattern hooks and table legs to prop up the couch fat so the paint would dry in its crevices

I used pattern hooks and table legs to prop up the couch fat so the paint would dry in its crevices

I was using two shades of orange so that the color wasn’t so flat.  I just randomly chose what shade to dip the brush in each time I needed more paint.  Nothing to it.

The worst part was setting the paint.  After painting each section of the couch, I used an iron (over a piece of cotton fabric) to heat the paint and set it to the leather so it won’t rub off when you sit on it.  After all of the orange was painted and set (which took for-f::king-ever), I could start on the black.  I also sprinkled the metallic powder on the black stripes ::

I didn't bother taping off the stripes, a little wiggle in the brush strokes would fit in fine with the wrinkles in the leather.

I didn't bother taping off the stripes. I figured a little wiggle in the brush strokes would fit in fine with the wrinkles and creases in the leather.

And I made sure to add something blasphemous to the back ::

How could I not?

How could I not? Well, partially because I was quickly running out of orange paint...

At the end of it all, I set the iron to almost the highest setting and slowly set all of the paint one last time to make sure it would hold.

This would have been a great winter project due to the heat from the iron.  I, however, finished it in the summer.  Not so good.  But over the last several months the paint hasn’t come off at all, and it has kept the flexibility and softness of the original leather.  So yay for painting leather couches!  But do it in le winter.

:: KtB ::

How to make a Pin Cushion out of a candle holder

A few years ago I was shopping for a cool pin cushion, but all I saw were stupid tomatoes and other cutesy things not fitting to my work space. I acquired a damaged cow skull which I attempted to clean the remaining charred flesh out of, but it turned into a very long and smelly story, and I didn’t end up using it… Next best thing: tea light candle holders in the shape of spiders! Candle holders are excellent options for pin cushions because they are usually sturdy, so they can also function as fabric and pattern weights. Ah, multitasking. Good for people and non-people.

Anyway, here’s how I made it:

spider-pin-cushion1

spider-pin-cushion2

spider-pin-cushion3

spider-pin-cushion4

spider-pin-cushion5

spider-pin-cushion6

spider-pin-cushion7

spider-pin-cushion8

spider-pin-cushion9

::KtB::